level 11
VOGUE的review
NEW YORK,SEPTEMBER 9, 2018by JANELLE OKWODU
The starting point of Christian Siriano’s Spring 2019 collection may have been Hawaii, but he has yet to pay the Aloha State a visit. With his jam-packed schedule preventing him from taking an extended break, he brought the vacation vibes to his runway. “I wanted to go, but I didn’t have time during this crazy summer,” he shared backstage. “[Instead,] I’m going to do this fantasy of what it would be like and take everyone into my dream world.” Focused on the easygoing mood that typifies the island lifestyle rather than direct points of reference, Siriano skipped the grass skirts and luau stereotypes that are often associated with the locale. Instead, he offered a lively exploration of his signature look, i.e. ladylike ready-to-wear with unapologetic frippery.
Though there was the occasional casual piece—Cynthia Nixon received a ringing endorsement via a fitted T-shirt and skirt covered in palm fringe—the trainers and track pants set will have to look elsewhere this season as Siriano’s holiday plans involve plenty of dressing up. A black gown with a hothouse flower print and a thigh-high slit on model Joss Corona kicked things off, and what followed was a sultry series of dresses and separates. With formfitting leopard prints, transparent python toppers, and models in towering platform shoes, the look was sexy. Midriff-baring jackets in neon green and sheer menswear mesh that left little to the imagination added to the revealing segment, but it wasn’t all skin.
Hawaii was the jumping-off point, but New York grounded the affair in reality. With Nixon seated front row and pamphlets encouraging guests to vote in the upcoming gubernatorial election, the city’s politics loomed large within the collection. For Siriano, Nixon’s message meshed with the inclusive spirit of his collections. “I think what she’s doing is [also] what I’m trying to do,” he said. “We’re trying to support all these different types of people, cultures, and women, and I wanted to put it out there and support her.”
The second half of the show provided plenty of options for a politician on the rise. Siriano ended the vacation early with a segue into stately eveningwear. A high-neck wrap dress worn over trousers struck the right chord as did a white suit covered in crystals. On a few looks, the embellishments were unwieldy—green ruffles mimicking a lei felt overwrought—but he quickly righted things with a neon gown fit for an inaugural gala.
2018年09月10日 12点09分
11
level 1
设计越来越成熟了,风格依旧保持得很好。但是那个像披肩的设计,是不成了标志性设计?可是并不好看呀,已经出现N季了,希望下次能狠心舍弃。
2018年09月17日 03点09分
12