这是被第三方转载的一篇关于DHH的饲育记录，原著作者叫安彦笠原，这位应该是有点名气，而且应该是对长戟有着一定的了解，字数太多实在翻译起来很费神，所以我在更新的过程中会用中文做一些关键性的标注，有条件的小盆友可以自助观看，看起来费点儿劲的小朋友就暂时只看标注吧，目的是让大家了解一下日本的甲虫文化的成长，希望我们从这里能够看到我们自己的不足和以后的发展方向。

1. Introduction
To start, I would like to give you a brief history of a rather new fad, beetle rearing, in my country. Year 1986 became a milestone for beetle business in Japan. That year, Hiroshi Kojima, an acquaintance of mine, introduced an article on his success in the breeding of Dorcus hopei binodulosus, the then most popular stag beetle that was sold at rather high prices. By then, because of their high commercial values, they had been over collected here and thus became rather rare in nature. And yet, much of their life cycle had been veiled with mysteries. Kojima’s article shed a light on their life cycle and their breeding/rearing. In the following years, a variety of beetle breeding/rearing articles (substrates, foods, containers, etc.) were developed for the purpose of mass-producing the beetles. Soon, the species were reproduced in a large quantity and the new pet business - beetle breeding/rearing - had begun. Moreover, in 1999, ninety-nine living exotic beetle species became importable to Japan which include Dynastes, Megasoma, Chalcosoma, etc., and more species have been added to the import list from time to time. Over the course of time, some of the species have been reared to a point where they exceed the maximum length that they attain in nature. It is said that there are about 3 million beetle hobbyists in Japan. Now, living beetles from around the world are readily available at supermarkets and pet shops throughout the country. There are even ‘beetle’ shops here1.
My particular concerns are the breeding/rearing of giant beetles, the maximum length of whose males exceeds 100 mm in nature (see the following list: Giant Rhinoceros Beetles). Amongst them, Dynastes Hercules Hercules is my most favorite.
Giant Rhinoceros Beetles2:
1) Dynastes Hercules (Hercules of Guadeloupe: max. 180 mm?);
2) Dynastes neptunus (max. 158 mm);
3) Megasoma mars (max. 140 mm?);
4) Megasoma elephas (elephas: max. 136 mm?);
5) Megasoma actaeon (max. 135 mm?);
6) Chalcosoma chiron (janssensi of Sumatra Is.: max. 133 mm);
7) Megasoma janus (janus: max. 120 mm);
8) Megasoma gyas (gyas of Brazil: max. 116 mm);
9) Dynastes satanas (Bolivia: max. 115 mm);
10) Megasoma occidentalis (Mexico: max. 112 mm);
11) Chalcosoma moellenkampi (Kalimantan Is.: max. 112 mm);
12) Chalcosoma atlas (hesperus of Mindanao Is.: max. 108 mm)
The following pages present the breeding/rearing of Dynastes hercules hercules. Discussion on the breeding/rearing follows natural history of the insect, which is thought useful for breeding/rearing. Although the classification of the species may vary among taxonomists, there are 13 varieties3:
1) hercules Linneaeus, 1758 (max. 180mm?; Guadeloupe and Dominica);
2) ecuatorianus Ohaus, 1913 (max. 165 mm; Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Brazil and Bolivia);
3) baudrii Pinchon, 1976 (max. 100 mm; Martinique);
4) reidi Chalmeau, 1977 (max. 105 mm; St. Lucia);
5) lichyi Lachaum, 1985 (max. 172 mm; Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia);
6) occidentalis Lachaum, 1985 (max. 145 mm; Panama, Colombia and Ecuador);
7) septentrionalis Lachaum, 1985 (max. 140 mm; Central America);
8) paschoali Grossi et Arnaud, 1993 (max. 145 mm; Brazil);
9) tuxtlaensis Moro'n, 1993 (max. 110 mm; Mexico);
10) bleuzeni Silvestre et Dechambre, 1995 (max. 151 mm; Venezuela);
11) trinidadensis Chalumeau et Reid, 1995 (max. 137 mm; Trinidad and Tobago);
12) morishimai Nagai, 2002 (max. 120 mm; Bolivia);
13) takakuwai Nagai, 2002 (max. 130 mm; Brazil)
Ssp. Hercules is considered as the longest living rhinoceros beetle in the world. A number of sources say that 180 mm may be the maximum length of a wild-caught male imago (adult) of Guadeloupe. That means, for beetle breeding/rearing enthusiasts, that the male of this subspecies has a potential of growing up to 180 mm long or even longer. Note that, thanks to the collaboration of breeders and hobbyists, some substrates for breeding/rearing Dynastinae were developed and hence, by using them, some breeders/rearers in Japan, both professionals and hobbyists, have reported the rearing of males of this variety from eggs to imagoes of over 150-160 mm in length4 (brief description of a substrate is presented in 4. A breeding/rearing substrate). The following discussion limits ssp. Hercules, first introducing its natural history and then
emphasizing its breeding/rearing method to win good results. However, this breeding/rearing method can be applied to many other Dynastinae.

2. Natural history
2.1 Description: Male 46-180? mm including horns; Female 50-80 mm. Dull black on prothorax and yellowish-brown on fore wings. Male's horns have several small teeth along inner edge, and are slightly bent inwardly at tip. Head of a large male reaches to the length of its prothorax and abdomen combined5.
2.2 Habitat: Tropical rain forests6.
2.3 Range: Ssp. Hercules is confined to Guadeloupe and Dominica7.
2.4 Food: The imago saps tree juice and the larva seems to feed on rotten hardwood trees8.
2.5 Life cycle: The insect's life cycle is said to be largely unknown in a natural setting9. Under captive rearing (26 degrees C. in summer; 18 degrees C. in winter) using an artificial substrate, however, the author has experienced the following:
1. Duration of egg incubation: about 1 month 2. Duration of larval stage: Male: 12-18 months (L1: 1 month; L2: 2 months; and L3: 9-15 months); and Female: 12 months (L1: 1 month; L2: 2 months; and L3: 9 months) 3. Duration of pupal stage: 2-3 months

3. Breeding/rearing
3.1 Getting startedTo begin with,
what you need are:
1) An imago pair (or several larvae);
2) Containers for breeding/rearing;
3) Food for imagoes;
4) Substrate for breeding/rearing
1) Please obtain an imago pair (or several larvae). In choosing which individuals to buy, the following criteria are useful:
a) Wild-caught individuals: Make sure: - When were they collected?: Avoid older individuals. - Are they healthy-looking?: Check if there is no scar, injury or missing part.
b) Captive reared individuals: Make sure: - When did they emerge?: Avoid individuals of 8 months or older. - Are they healthy-looking?: Check that there is no scar, injury or missing part.
* Note that these two criteria are for imagoes. For choosing larvae, you can skip steps: - When were they collected? and - When did they emerge?
2) Oviposition (egg laying) requires some space; e.g. a large container with a capacity of 45-60 liters (an example is a fish tank, and a lid is a must to stop the beetles from escaping). Get one and fill it with substrate (see 4. A breeding/rearing substrate).
- Put substrate into the container up to 20 cm high from the bottom, and press it hard by hand or any other means. Then, another 10 cm depth of substrate should be added, unpressed, to the top of the layer. Often times, the female prefers depth and lays eggs in the hard-pressed bottom layer.
- It is good to place several small tree branches or wood sticks on the surface of the substrate. By holding them, beetles can easily get up in case they turn upside down on their backs.
- Then, place a pair of beetles into the container. Feed them regularly (for food, see 3)).
- Keep the temperature at 20-26 degrees C. and moisten the substrate adequately.
3) For maintaining imagoes, you need to feed them with a peeled banana. It is better to place its pieces or slices on a small tray instead of applying them directly on the substrate, which causes them to spoil faster or prompts an occurrence of fruit flies or ticks (mites). I hear that a peeled apple or a peach also serves as a suitable food.
4) See 4. A breeding/rearing substrate.
3.2 Rearing larvae
One or two months after you place the imago pair in the breeding container, look into the substrate to see if larvae have already hatched. If so, take the imagoes out of the container, and keep the larvae in the container until they become second-instar (L2)*. To win better results of larval growth, keep males separated from females at L2 stage and transfer the males singly into large rearing containers, preferably of a 45-60 liter capacity. However, if you do not expect males to grow to a maximum, you can rear them together in a fairly large container or put them singly into a container of a smaller capacity (e.g. 5-6 liters). For females, you can rear them together in a large container. But, the fewer in number, the larger they seem to grow. But again, if you also expect females to grow to a maximum, you should put them singly into a container of 5-6 liters in capacity.
* If you wish to obtain more eggs, place the imago pair into another breeding container. Repeat this process if you want.
You will need to change substrates from time to time. You can put gardening black dirt (garden soil) up to 15 cm high from the bottom of the container, and press it hard. The black dirt layer makes it easier for the larvae to make pupal cells in their last larval stage. Note that black dirt is NOT food and you do not have to remove it each time you change rearing substrates. For male larvae, I change the rearing substrate of a 60 liter container every 6 months over the course of a larval period of about one and a half years or until larvae turn noticeably yellowish in colour. However, if you use a smaller container for rearing a male larva, you need to change substrates more often. A reliable sign for a change is larva’s dung. If it becomes noticeable, then you change substrates. When changing substrates, it is safer to lay unused (new) substrate first, and then the used one. Do not press rearing substrate hard in order to keep it well-ventilated. The capacity ratio of the new to the used is 2-to-1. By so doing, the beetle's symbiotic bacteria, if any, would grow steadily in the substrate and promote an ideal feeding environment for better larval growth11. For females, you can change rearing substrates when dung appears noticeable in the substrate. From the author's rearing, the duration of the larval periods are: Male: 12-18 months; and Female: 12 months.
There is a breeding technique on this species. When larvae are singly reared, the females tend to emerge much earlier than the males. Although the imago of this species has a rather long life (8-12 months), it occasionally makes it difficult to mate them for the following generations. To avoid this, I suggest that you prepare at least one large container where you would put both male and female larvae together until their emergence. By so doing, the female and male would emerge around the same time and it makes it easier to mate them. H. Kojima points out that the female larvae of this species might emit a hormone, which prompts the male counterparts in the surroundings to undergo pupation simultaneously. This rearing method, however, would not guarantee maximum growth potential of the male (or female). In other words, if you want to rear the largest male (or female) imagoes, they should be reared singly in containers of a large capacity. There may be exceptional cases, but that is the safest practice to win the best results.
3.3 Larva sexing
For sexing, see the following picture, Figure 3.3.
Figure 3.3 A tiny dent may be visible on the 9th abdominal segment of the ventral side of a male larva after its middle L2 stage. There is no dent on a female larva. Besides, an L3 male often exceeds 100 grams in weight when it is fully grown, whereas the female remains below 80 grams.
3.4 Maintaining pupae
After a larva turns noticeably yellowish in colour, stop changing rearing substrates. Some time soon, the larva will make a pupal cell under the substrate and undergo
pupation in it. The best advice I can give you at this point is patience: wait until imagoes emerge from the substrate. It may take several months.
3.5 Breeding
Repeat the process: 3.1 Getting started.

4. A breeding/rearing substrate
There are some substrates available for breeding and rearing rhinoceros beetles. On this page, I will choose one of these kinds. It is relatively easy to get and inexpensive. Its recipe is based on my direct hearings with H. Kojima, Japan’s leading expert on Dynastine/Lucanid beetle breeding/rearing (2004-2005), and I have tested its performance for breeding/rearing some rhinoceros, stag and flower beetles. So far, it has given excellent performance in the beetles’ egg laying and larval growth. However, please note that I will not take any responsibility in the event of any ill or arrested development or, in the worst case, death of your beetle larvae due to its use:
Bark compost (made from hardwood trees only, no coniferous trees)
Go to a garden center/shop nearest you and get one. Make sure that you get one with no chemicals (a totally organic one). Now it is ready to serve. You can also use this substrate for breeding and rearing flower beetles and some stag beetles (e.g. Genus Odontolabis).

5. Tips to attain a maximum-length adult male of this species/variety
1) Ideal rearing environment temperature is 25 degrees C. (cf. 20 degrees C. for ssp. lichyi);
2) Attain a male larva of 150 grams or more in weight;
3) Keep male larvae singly in a large container with good heat conductance (e.g. glass container with a capacity of 60 liters or more);
4) Keep changing substrates in a three-month interval;
5) Avoid pressing substrate so as not to disturb inside air flow;
6) Keep rearing containers in a dark, well-ventilated place;
7) Keep rearing containers apart; and,
8) Avoid touching rearing containers unless necessary.
Japan’s most circulated ‘beetle’ magazine, BE-KUWA, holds a "Breeders’ Guinness Contest" every year. The contest awards an honour to the largest ever captive reared individuals of certain rhino/stag beetle species and their amateur rearers/breeders. Issue No.14 lists a 165.2 mm lichyi adult male and a 159.6 mm hercules adult male. On Issue No. 17, the author was honoured for his captive reared Dorcus alcides (88.2 mm) although he has yet to be awarded for his hercules.

Figure 5.1 Shown in this picture is a male pupa of about 165 mm in length. Note that the maximum length of the pupal cell is about 190 mm. For the captive rearing of this individual, the author used a 60 liter container (see Figure 3.2), which was filled with pressed black dirt (garden soil) up to 10 cm high from the bottom and with 20 cm of unpressed (non-compacted) rearing substrate (see 4. A breeding/rearing substrate) added on top of it. The pressed bottom layer of black dirt helped the larva make this solid pupal cell.
References
1) Fujita, Hiroshi, et al., eds. BE-KUWA. No.8. Tokyo: MUSHI-SHA, 2003.
2) Okajima, Shuji, et al. eds. Kabutomushi Kuwagatamushi. Tokyo: GAKKEN, 2001; Fujita, Hiroshi, et al., eds. BE-KUWA. No.5, 9 & 13. Tokyo: MUSHI-SHA, 2002-2004.
3) Fujita, Hiroshi, Nagai, Shinji, et al., eds. BE-KUWA. No.5. Tokyo: MUSHI-SHA, 2002.
4) Fujita, Hiroshi, et al., eds. "Breeders’ Guinness" BE-KUWA. No.14. Tokyo: MUSHI-SHA, 2005.
5) Fujita, Hiroshi, Nagai, Shinji, et al., eds. BE-KUWA. No.5. Tokyo: MUSHI-SHA, 2002.
6) ditto.
7) ditto.
8) ditto.
9) Unno, Kazuo. ed. BEETLES. Tokyo: DATA HOUSE, 2000.
10) Ishiyone, Toru. ed. Wonderland Beetles (1). Nara: Nara Ookuwa Center, 2001.

你好，能不能把这篇文章发给我一下，谢谢。邮箱[email protected]

老铁，啥时候可以发文章给我呢